We go way beyond the standard fuel, boost, and ignition adjustments that are common in the tuning world. So you can be sure your car will perform optimally while retaining excellent drivability characteristics and a healthy margin of safety built into every tune. Countless hours of in house dyno testing, drivability road testing, and track torture testing went into the development of our calibrations. Using Cobb's ProTuner software, we have spent the past few years developing and refining our own set of staged tunes or "OTS tunes" for your MQB vehicle to be used with the Cobb AccessPort. This close relationship gives us early access to the newest features and input into further development and refinement of the system. We have been working very closely with Cobb Tuning through the development of their AccessPort and ProTuner software for this platform. Luckily, we have decades of experience in both fields and acquired our own Golf R as an R&D vehicle. Thank you for this detailed response.The Mk7 GTI and Golf R come with incredibly sophisticated engine management systems from the factory. Working with these ECU's requires an intimate knowledge of engine dynamics and software engineering to be able to properly understand and modify the functionality. ![]() That is why i never went past stage 2 on my Mk6, was not worth putting that much more into it for me to move to the next step. If you are thinking IS38 that requires at least a DP and ideally a FMIC, plus absolutely a new clutch, so unfortunately, it's an expensive upgrade. So i would just tune it and enjoy, and if you are keeping the car long-term keep your eye out for any used IS20 deals that come along. ![]() You are burning oil which is not unexpected, but i would make sure you can identify that isn't an issue before upgrading. There is a guy on the tubes that just recently put an IS38 on his Mk7 GTI with 120,000 miles on it. I would get a carbon cleaning as well and fresh coolant/plugs/coils if you haven't already addressed those.many run one range cooler plugs with their tunes and i would recommend that - whoever does your tune will have the plugs, and then I would do APR or RS7 coils for peace of mind as well. After that, just be kind to your car - let it cool down as you approach your destination, let it warm up properly before you run it hard, and change the oil every 5k. Your biggest issue will be your current IS20 is pretty old, and it might crap out in the near future.so keep that in mind, the turbo does work harder, and it is a item that does die, but presumably a IS20 is easy to pick up used.įor max engine health i would upgrade the FMIC as well, but if all you want to do is tune and run a couple more years, no need. The EA888 is a durable engine and these tiny turbos don't have the ability to stress them. The turbo itself works harder, and with 100k already on it, it may not be long for this world even at stock levels. Tunes up the boost and perhaps tweak timing a bit, they do not do much. The GTI was tuned from new - the dealer was an APR retailer. Not one problem across any car that was tune related. In terms of VAG products - I had a tuned 1999.5 A4, a tuned 2013 GTI, currently a IS38 2019 GLI which was tuned on it's IS20 before the IS38. Just this past 3 years going on 100,000 miles alone. I have put about 190,000 total miles on tuned or big-turbo modified cars over my life. The stage 2 tune does not do much in comparison, stage 1 tune is a good place to be. Just stick to a quality tuner not one that is eeking out max gains. ![]() There are (I believe) low torque tunes so check with your tuner (there are low-torque tunes for the Mk7 for manual cars). The day i went stage 2 on my 2013 GTI the clutch slipped, but it was rock solid on stage 1 tune.
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